Krka National Park, Vodice

The weather is getting warmer the further south we drive. We've passed Bosnia/Herzogovenia and gone through the border patrol there which is quite strict. There is a portion of Bosnia which is considered "no man's land" since it is unclear who actually owns that portion of the country. We pass an area which is called the valley of grief. Thousands of cypress trees grow here which were planted many years ago in memory of those killed during the war. It is apparent that many homes have been either bombed or vacated and no one has returned. Those that have returned do so cautiously due to the fact that there are still active land mines in several areas. The common thread in their local newspapers are about those that have returned to rebuild their lives and have gone into the woods or worked the land when a mine went off. Huge efforts are being made to disarm these mines which were meant to mame rather than kill....and, that is exactly what they do

We stop at a place called Etnoland located in the Dalmation hinterland. We are greeted by Anna and her husband who offer us a sacred Dalmation welcome which is a strong liquor and a toast to health, wealth and prosperity. We are then treated to a delicious lunch of chicken and pork (cooked under "the bell"). The bell is a metal dome-shaped lid which is called a Peka which covers the meat while it cooks. This is the traditional Balkan way of cooking. It is connected to the idea of a fireplace as the heart of every traditional household, where the family gets together, where meals are prepared and where everything happens. The flavor is hard to describe...partially roasted, partially cooked. You light a fire and place the dish with the Peka on the hot coals and then cover the whole thing with more coals so that the food is baked from under and above. All I can say....it was delicious.

The best way I can describe Etnoland is that to me, the concept is "farm to table". Everything is raised and grown on this land and the restaurant is serving their meals family style. We love it!

The quaint Dalmatian village of Pakovo Selo is home to the beautiful Krka National Park. This is one of Croatia's most famous sights which includes Skradinski Buk Falls. It entertains 10,000 people during peak season which is why I'm really happy to be here now! We almost have the place to ourselves! A beautiful walk thru nature viewing the falls is not only memorable but relaxing as well.